jeudi 16 octobre 2014

my official Photography website

This is my official website, please feel free to visit us and get some photography lessons and get some inspiration by watching my work and the work i'm sharing with you guys.. enjooy..
http://www.yasserphotography.org








lundi 13 octobre 2014

Photography lessons #11

Photo lessons 11: Weatherproof your kit

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Unless the manufacturer states that the camera and lens you are using are weather-proof, you can safely assume that they are not. Don’t take chances with your kit as even a small amount of rain (or sand) can cause major problems that mean your camera has to take a trip to the service centre.
There are specialist weatherproofing kits available, but a clear plastic bag can be pressed into service with the addition of a rubber band around the opening to hold it tight on the end of the lens.


Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #10

Photo lessons 10: Check all images at 100%

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Failure to check images thoroughly can lead to expensive mistakes that are only revealed when you open the packaging of the 20×16-inch acrylic print you ordered.
To ensure you’ve spotted out all dust marks and checked every part of an image, view it at 100% on screen and use guides to divide it into screen sized sections that you check methodically.

Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #9

Photo lessons 9: Master flash

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Many enthusiast photographers are nervous about using flash in their photographs, but it can really set your images apart from the masses.
Professional social and event photographers use fill-in flash because it brings subjects to life, injecting colour and sparkle – and that increases sales or the likelihood of being hired again.
If you’ve got an event coming up that you want to photograph, get practising with your flash in advance so that you’ll be confident about how to use it on the day.

Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #8

Photo lessons 8: Buy a good tripod

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A decent tripod doesn’t cost the earth these days and it’s a worthwhile investment if you want to make the best use of all those pixels on your camera’s sensor.
However, don’t rush into the decision about which model to buy.
Think about what type of photography you will mainly be using it for, where you will use it and how you will transport it.
If you’re looking for a tripod to use at home or in the studio then it can be big and heavy because you don’t need to carry it far.
If, however, you plan on making long expeditions on foot to remote shooting locations you may want something a bit smaller and lighter.
Small and light tripods are fairly easy to find, but it also needs to be strong and rigid to hold your camera still in strong wind and this can bump the cost up.
Don’t stint or you’ll end up having soft images and have to buy a second (better) tripod.
If you want to use your tripod on the beach, perhaps even with the legs in the sea on some occasions, then consider investing in a model that is designed to survive harsh conditions and has seals to keep the salt water out of the joints.
It won’t be cheap, but it may be the only tripod you ever need to buy.

Source: petapixel.com/

Photography lessons #7

Photo lessons 7: Find wedding shoot locations in advance

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Sticking with the subject of wedding photography, all good pros scout the location before the big day — preferably at the same time as the ceremony to find the best light and shooting locations in advance.
Even if the forecast is for fine weather it’s sensible to find alternative locations in case the sun is too strong, the wind whips up or a freak hailstorm starts.
Being prepared in this way will give you confidence, allowing you to concentrate on getting the composition, poses and exposure right.
You’ll also look much more professional than if you’re wandering around looking for a good location with the bride and groom trailing behind you.

Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #6

Photo lessons 6: Take spare cameras and lenses to weddings

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If you’ve been commissioned to photograph a wedding, the bride and groom will show you absolutely no sympathy if you stop shooting half-way through because you’ve dropped your lens or your camera has seized up.
In fact they are likely to get pretty upset about it.
They’ve spent a fortune on their big day and they expect you to continue shooting whatever happens. Reshoots are not an option.
The moral is, if you’re photographing a one off event, make sure that you have back-up equipment with you.

Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #5

Photo lessons 5: Modeling lights get hot

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Most studio flash heads have a modelling light that allows you to see where the flash will fall on the subject.
This allows you to position the lights to give the perfect balance of illumination and shadow.
The only problem is that these high-powered bulbs often get very hot after a few minutes use.
Unless you’re photographing delicate flowers or an elaborate design made from chocolate, it’s not usually a major issue for the subject, but you need to be careful when fitting light modifiers (softboxes etc) or packing the lights away.
Avoid touching the bulb with anything that is likely to burn or melt until it has cooled for a few moments.


source: petapixel.com

photography lessons #4

Photo lessons 4: Use fast lenses

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Lenses with large maximum apertures are expensive for a reason; they let lots of light in and allow you to use shutter speeds that will freeze movement and camera shake even when it’s quite dark.
Even if your camera has a very high maximum sensitivity setting, if you’re shooting sport or music gigs in low light there really is no substitute.
In these situations using a lens with a maximum aperture of f/5.6 rather than f/2.8 can result in soft, blurry and unusable shots instead of pin-sharp images with bags of detail.
There’s also usually a dramatic impact on the camera’s ability to focus the lens.
If you don’t shoot moving subjects in low light on a frequent basis and you fancy giving it a go, consider hiring a fast lens for the day, it may not cost as much as you think.

Source: petapixel.com

photography lessons #3

Photo lessons 3: Work around a baby’s routine

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Photographing babies can be very rewarding, but it will be a frustrating nightmare if you don’t bear in mind the little one’s normal routine.
If you planned to get shots of the bambino’s big eyes looking into the camera and he or she is fast asleep, wait until they wake up naturally and have been fed / changed / winded etc. Any other action will result in ear-piercing cries and lots of tears.
Conversely, if the baby is wide-awake and you want shots of them asleep, you’ll just have to wait until his or her usual nap time.
That’s how it goes with babies.

photography lessons #2

Photo lessons 2: Shoot raw files

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There may be loads of occasions when the JPEG results that you get straight from your camera are exactly what you want, but you can bet your last bean that it’ll be a crucial shot that has the wrong exposure and/or white balance.
If you’ve shot a raw file you’ll be able to produce a much better image than you ever will with a JPEG.
Don’t chance it, shoot raw files whenever possible.


                source: petapixel.com

photography lessons #1














Photo lessons 1: Download images and format cards straight after a shoot

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It’s annoying enough when you fill a memory card mid-shoot and have to change to another, but if you reach into your bag and realise that you don’t have a single empty card, you’ll really be kicking yourself.
It also doesn’t impress a model or client if you waste their time while you scroll through your images looking for duff shots that you can delete to create space.
Save yourself the hurt, and download your images straight after every shoot.
Then format the card so it’s ready to be used as soon as you need it.

jeudi 9 octobre 2014

sunset shot in the beach

this picture was taken in port-say beach (tlemcen-Algeria) in summer 2014, hope you like it...

lundi 6 octobre 2014

Photography lesson

Photography lesson – Shutter Effects

 

You’ve probably seen those pictures of a race car or bike rider where the subject is in fairly sharp focus but the background is blurry with streaks denoting speed. Perhaps you’ve seen a waterfall that looks like flowing silk. Or you seen a picture with someone totally frozen in place during an athletic moment.
These are a result of creatively using the shutter on the camera. High shutter speeds, such as 1/500th, 1/1000th, 1/2000th or higher (remember these are fractions of a second) create a stopped motion.
Alternatively, slow shutter speeds such as 1/15th, 1/4, or even whole seconds, creates a sense of motion through blurring of some part of the picture.
One of the issues is quite often if the shutter speed is too slow, an image can be blurry from “motion blur” which can detract from an image if the effect isn’t intentional.
Exercise: This is best done on a lightly clouded day that isn’t too dark or too bright. Find a friend with a bicycle or who likes to run. Go to an open area and set up your position. Have your friend ride or run past you many many times. You’ll need to do lots of exposures to get the shots.
First set your shutter speed as high as you can for the light – hopefully around 1/500 to 1/2000 – with the aperture as open as you can set (i.e. ƒ1.8).
As your friend moves past you, keep him or her in the viewfinder, turning yourself at the waist to constantly point your camera at your friend. Take lots of pictures for several passes. This is known as “panning.” You might want to try a couple of passes without tripping the shutter and practicing keeping your friend in the viewfinder as he or she goes past you.
Now, set your shutter speed as low as you can – I’d suggest around 1/30, remembering to set the aperture as high as you can for the light. Repeat the above panning motion to keep your friend in the viewfinder. Take lots more pictures, remembering to keep turning yourself at the waist as your friend goes by.
PS – to keep your images acceptably sharp, the rule-of-thumb is to keep your shutter speed at least the same as your focal length – ie a 50 mm lens should be used with a shutter speed of 1/50 of a second or faster. However, I find with most digital cameras you want to add another 50 % to that – so you want to shoot at 1/80 or faster (The one third of a stop equivalent of 1/75).
For sharp pictures a tripod is a very handy tool to free up your choice of shutter speeds.
Alternatively, you can hand hold a camera to surprisingly extended times with good technique: place the bottom of the camera body in your left hand and support its weight with that hand, then tuck your left elbow basically into your lower left rib cage. Finally hold the viewfinder close to your eye and use your right hand to trigger the shutter and further stabilize the camera. Breath in and let your breath out slowly while squeezing the shutter.


Source: bestphotolessons.com

 

dimanche 5 octobre 2014

Photography lesson

Photography lesson – Intent



Why do you want to take pictures? You may want to share with others how you see the world around you, you may want to document your life and that of the people you love, you may have a desire to create images that blow other people away. There are so many excellent reasons to get into photography and why you do so is up to you.
I’ve put this section first because when I learned photography – it was technique first and art second. That is a time honoured way of learning photography. But now that I’ve done it for 30 years I think it was a backwards way of learning photography.
Photography is an art and you are the artist. If you’re thinking you could never be an artist I have good news for you – you already are. Even just taking the time to read this page you’ve shown you have the desire make images that give you pleasure and can affect others – that is art.
Now comes the fun part – think about why you want to take pictures. Write down a list of:
  1. Things you like about photography. Do you love the moment of seeing the images in prints or on your screen? Is it the challenge of making the photo? Is it the sharing the images with your friends? Is it the memories you get when you look at your photos later? Whatever it is you like about taking pictures, write it down.
  2. What you want to achieve with photography. Do you want to remember what your kids are like at each stage of their growing up? Do you like flowers or architecture or mountains and want to document them? Do you want to show the human condition? Do you want to pursue a career in photography? Write down what you want your photography to do.
  3. What subjects you want to shoot. Flowers, dogs, kids, models, food, people’s feet, whatever. Write down those things you find catch your eye or make you wish you had your camera when you see it.
  4. How you feel about those subjects. Do you love it, hate it, feel afraid of it, laugh at it, wish it was yours? This is actually the most important section of the lesson. When you understand what you feel towards something, you’ll find your photography of it improves automatically.
Now grab your pen and start writing. Once you’re done, put it on the wall, throw it into your camera bag or put it somewhere you can easily review it. Add or change it as you grow as a photographer. But once you have the list, you have a great tool to make your photography better.
You may have noticed the link in top right corner for the book “Drawing on the artist within” by Betty Edwards. I highly recommend this book for learning about bringing out your inner artist – it is a very, very good book which taught me a lot.




source: bestphotolessons.com