my official Photography website

This is my official website, please feel free to visit us and get some photography lessons and get some inspiration by watching my work and the work i'm sharing with you guys.. enjooy..
http://www.yasserphotography.org

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Photography lessons #11

Photo lessons 11: Weatherproof your kit

Unless the manufacturer states that the camera and lens you are using are weather-proof, you can safely assume that they are not. Don’t take chances with your kit as even a small amount of rain (or sand) can cause major problems that mean your camera has to take a trip to the service centre.
There are specialist weatherproofing kits available, but a clear plastic bag can be pressed into service with the addition of a rubber band around the opening to hold it tight on the end of the lens.


Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #10

Photo lessons 10: Check all images at 100%

Failure to check images thoroughly can lead to expensive mistakes that are only revealed when you open the packaging of the 20×16-inch acrylic print you ordered.
To ensure you’ve spotted out all dust marks and checked every part of an image, view it at 100% on screen and use guides to divide it into screen sized sections that you check methodically.

Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #9

Photo lessons 9: Master flash

Many enthusiast photographers are nervous about using flash in their photographs, but it can really set your images apart from the masses.
Professional social and event photographers use fill-in flash because it brings subjects to life, injecting colour and sparkle – and that increases sales or the likelihood of being hired again.
If you’ve got an event coming up that you want to photograph, get practising with your flash in advance so that you’ll be confident about how to use it on the day.

Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #8

Photo lessons 8: Buy a good tripod

A decent tripod doesn’t cost the earth these days and it’s a worthwhile investment if you want to make the best use of all those pixels on your camera’s sensor.
However, don’t rush into the decision about which model to buy.
Think about what type of photography you will mainly be using it for, where you will use it and how you will transport it.
If you’re looking for a tripod to use at home or in the studio then it can be big and heavy because you don’t need to carry it far.
If, however, you plan on making long expeditions on foot to remote shooting locations you may want something a bit smaller and lighter.
Small and light tripods are fairly easy to find, but it also needs to be strong and rigid to hold your camera still in strong wind and this can bump the cost up.
Don’t stint or you’ll end up having soft images and have to buy a second (better) tripod.
If you want to use your tripod on the beach, perhaps even with the legs in the sea on some occasions, then consider investing in a model that is designed to survive harsh conditions and has seals to keep the salt water out of the joints.
It won’t be cheap, but it may be the only tripod you ever need to buy.

Source: petapixel.com/

Photography lessons #7

Photo lessons 7: Find wedding shoot locations in advance

Sticking with the subject of wedding photography, all good pros scout the location before the big day — preferably at the same time as the ceremony to find the best light and shooting locations in advance.
Even if the forecast is for fine weather it’s sensible to find alternative locations in case the sun is too strong, the wind whips up or a freak hailstorm starts.
Being prepared in this way will give you confidence, allowing you to concentrate on getting the composition, poses and exposure right.
You’ll also look much more professional than if you’re wandering around looking for a good location with the bride and groom trailing behind you.

Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #6

Photo lessons 6: Take spare cameras and lenses to weddings

If you’ve been commissioned to photograph a wedding, the bride and groom will show you absolutely no sympathy if you stop shooting half-way through because you’ve dropped your lens or your camera has seized up.
In fact they are likely to get pretty upset about it.
They’ve spent a fortune on their big day and they expect you to continue shooting whatever happens. Reshoots are not an option.
The moral is, if you’re photographing a one off event, make sure that you have back-up equipment with you.

Source: petapixel.com

Photography lessons #5

Photo lessons 5: Modeling lights get hot

Most studio flash heads have a modelling light that allows you to see where the flash will fall on the subject.
This allows you to position the lights to give the perfect balance of illumination and shadow.
The only problem is that these high-powered bulbs often get very hot after a few minutes use.
Unless you’re photographing delicate flowers or an elaborate design made from chocolate, it’s not usually a major issue for the subject, but you need to be careful when fitting light modifiers (softboxes etc) or packing the lights away.
Avoid touching the bulb with anything that is likely to burn or melt until it has cooled for a few moments.


source: petapixel.com

photography lessons #4

Photo lessons 4: Use fast lenses

Lenses with large maximum apertures are expensive for a reason; they let lots of light in and allow you to use shutter speeds that will freeze movement and camera shake even when it’s quite dark.
Even if your camera has a very high maximum sensitivity setting, if you’re shooting sport or music gigs in low light there really is no substitute.
In these situations using a lens with a maximum aperture of f/5.6 rather than f/2.8 can result in soft, blurry and unusable shots instead of pin-sharp images with bags of detail.
There’s also usually a dramatic impact on the camera’s ability to focus the lens.
If you don’t shoot moving subjects in low light on a frequent basis and you fancy giving it a go, consider hiring a fast lens for the day, it may not cost as much as you think.

Source: petapixel.com

photography lessons #3

Photo lessons 3: Work around a baby’s routine

Photographing babies can be very rewarding, but it will be a frustrating nightmare if you don’t bear in mind the little one’s normal routine.
If you planned to get shots of the bambino’s big eyes looking into the camera and he or she is fast asleep, wait until they wake up naturally and have been fed / changed / winded etc. Any other action will result in ear-piercing cries and lots of tears.
Conversely, if the baby is wide-awake and you want shots of them asleep, you’ll just have to wait until his or her usual nap time.
That’s how it goes with babies.

photography lessons #2

Photo lessons 2: Shoot raw files

There may be loads of occasions when the JPEG results that you get straight from your camera are exactly what you want, but you can bet your last bean that it’ll be a crucial shot that has the wrong exposure and/or white balance.
If you’ve shot a raw file you’ll be able to produce a much better image than you ever will with a JPEG.
Don’t chance it, shoot raw files whenever possible.


                source: petapixel.com

photography lessons #1

Photo lessons 1: Download images and format cards straight after a shoot

It’s annoying enough when you fill a memory card mid-shoot and have to change to another, but if you reach into your bag and realise that you don’t have a single empty card, you’ll really be kicking yourself.
It also doesn’t impress a model or client if you waste their time while you scroll through your images looking for duff shots that you can delete to create space.
Save yourself the hurt, and download your images straight after every shoot.
Then format the card so it’s ready to be used as soon as you need it.

Nature!

sunset shot in the beach

this picture was taken in port-say beach (tlemcen-Algeria) in summer 2014, hope you like it...

stethoscope

shooting grapes with high iso

when shooting something with high iso and a lightened place, you just get this amazing effects that looks like old camera...

i love chocolate taste

only god can judge me

only God can judge me!!! #freedome

Photography lesson

Photography lesson – Shutter Effects

 

You’ve probably seen those pictures of a race car or bike rider where the subject is in fairly sharp focus but the background is blurry with streaks denoting speed. Perhaps you’ve seen a waterfall that looks like flowing silk. Or you seen a picture with someone totally frozen in place during an athletic moment.
These are a result of creatively using the shutter on the camera. High shutter speeds, such as 1/500th, 1/1000th, 1/2000th or higher (remember these are fractions of a second) create a stopped motion.
Alternatively, slow shutter speeds such as 1/15th, 1/4, or even whole seconds, creates a sense of motion through blurring of some part of the picture.
One of the issues is quite often if the shutter speed is too slow, an image can be blurry from “motion blur” which can detract from an image if the effect isn’t intentional.
Exercise: This is best done on a lightly clouded day that isn’t too dark or too bright. Find a friend with a bicycle or who likes to run. Go to an open area and set up your position. Have your friend ride or run past you many many times. You’ll need to do lots of exposures to get the shots.
First set your shutter speed as high as you can for the light – hopefully around 1/500 to 1/2000 – with the aperture as open as you can set (i.e. ƒ1.8).
As your friend moves past you, keep him or her in the viewfinder, turning yourself at the waist to constantly point your camera at your friend. Take lots of pictures for several passes. This is known as “panning.” You might want to try a couple of passes without tripping the shutter and practicing keeping your friend in the viewfinder as he or she goes past you.
Now, set your shutter speed as low as you can – I’d suggest around 1/30, remembering to set the aperture as high as you can for the light. Repeat the above panning motion to keep your friend in the viewfinder. Take lots more pictures, remembering to keep turning yourself at the waist as your friend goes by.
PS – to keep your images acceptably sharp, the rule-of-thumb is to keep your shutter speed at least the same as your focal length – ie a 50 mm lens should be used with a shutter speed of 1/50 of a second or faster. However, I find with most digital cameras you want to add another 50 % to that – so you want to shoot at 1/80 or faster (The one third of a stop equivalent of 1/75).
For sharp pictures a tripod is a very handy tool to free up your choice of shutter speeds.
Alternatively, you can hand hold a camera to surprisingly extended times with good technique: place the bottom of the camera body in your left hand and support its weight with that hand, then tuck your left elbow basically into your lower left rib cage. Finally hold the viewfinder close to your eye and use your right hand to trigger the shutter and further stabilize the camera. Breath in and let your breath out slowly while squeezing the shutter.

Source: bestphotolessons.com

 

Photography lesson

Photography lesson – Intent

Why do you want to take pictures? You may want to share with others how you see the world around you, you may want to document your life and that of the people you love, you may have a desire to create images that blow other people away. There are so many excellent reasons to get into photography and why you do so is up to you.
I’ve put this section first because when I learned photography – it was technique first and art second. That is a time honoured way of learning photography. But now that I’ve done it for 30 years I think it was a backwards way of learning photography.
Photography is an art and you are the artist. If you’re thinking you could never be an artist I have good news for you – you already are. Even just taking the time to read this page you’ve shown you have the desire make images that give you pleasure and can affect others – that is art.
Now comes the fun part – think about why you want to take pictures. Write down a list of:

1. Things you like about photography. Do you love the moment of seeing the images in prints or on your screen? Is it the challenge of making the photo? Is it the sharing the images with your friends? Is it the memories you get when you look at your photos later? Whatever it is you like about taking pictures, write it down.
2. What you want to achieve with photography. Do you want to remember what your kids are like at each stage of their growing up? Do you like flowers or architecture or mountains and want to document them? Do you want to show the human condition? Do you want to pursue a career in photography? Write down what you want your photography to do.
3. What subjects you want to shoot. Flowers, dogs, kids, models, food, people’s feet, whatever. Write down those things you find catch your eye or make you wish you had your camera when you see it.
4. How you feel about those subjects. Do you love it, hate it, feel afraid of it, laugh at it, wish it was yours? This is actually the most important section of the lesson. When you understand what you feel towards something, you’ll find your photography of it improves automatically.

Now grab your pen and start writing. Once you’re done, put it on the wall, throw it into your camera bag or put it somewhere you can easily review it. Add or change it as you grow as a photographer. But once you have the list, you have a great tool to make your photography better.
You may have noticed the link in top right corner for the book “Drawing on the artist within” by Betty Edwards. I highly recommend this book for learning about bringing out your inner artist – it is a very, very good book which taught me a lot.

source: bestphotolessons.com

Photography lesson

Photography lesson – Pick A Subject

The absolute best way to improve as a photographer is to DO photography – get out and shoot. A great way to push yourself into better photos is by concentrating on one subject over a period of time. Each time you photograph your subject, whether its a person, plant, place or thing, find a new way to photograph it. It could be from a different angle, different time of day, different light – whatever you can do to see the subject in a new way.
For this lesson, pick something near by you can photograph on a regular basis. It could be: your car, your cat, your “significant other”, your guitar, what you see while walking through the neighbourhood, objects that look like numbers, rusty objects, etc.
Anything that you like to look at.
Exercise:
Every day for the next 10 days take some pictures of it. Look for different ways of seeing the same subject. Place your subject in different places, different light situations, try some of the different exercises in composition – find an S curve in the subject, or place your subject into an S curve, same with diagonal lines, etc. Just keep shooting and learning about the same subject.
What you learn from this simple exercise will carry through into most things you shoot.
Enjoy.

                              source: bestphotolessons.com

tlemcen - lela setti

Digital infrared photography: how to capture the world your eye can’t see

In this digital infrared photography tutorial we’ll show you how to choose suitable subjects, set up your camera and compose dynamic infrared images.

Bright over-head sunlight isn’t usually very flattering for shooting landscapes but its actually ideal for infrared photography.
Now this may not be something you have considered before but shooting infrared images is hugely rewarding and gives outdoor scenes an otherworldly haunting appearance.
The effect works especially well on green foliage and blue skies, which makes summer the perfect time to try shooting some ghostly infrared images in the midday sun!


Best conditions for infrared photography
Infrared photography is best suited to bright overhead sunshine. In this light, blue skies are rendered as rich dark tones and leaves and grass appear ghostly white after processing, giving images an eerie appearance.
For this reason landscapes are a popular choice but infrared can also be very effective for other subjects including people.
Bright sun isn’t essential though so don’t worry if the clouds roll in as you can still capture great images in overcast light.

If you go down the route of having your camera converted for infrared photography then you can pretty much shoot as normal although be aware that some lenses give better results than others, even expensive professional lenses.
Check online to see how your lens performs and also try using different lenses to see which gives the best results.
If you’re using an IR filter then things like exposure, focusing and composition are more difficult but it’s nothing that can’t be overcome with a bit of practice.
Because the IR filter is so dense exposure times will become much longer so a stable tripod is essential.
It’s also not possible to take a meter reading with the filter fitted, so you’ll need to adopt a trial and error approach initially.
But once you’ve worked out how much the exposure is affected by the filter you can take a meter reading as you would normally and then re-calculate the exposure time to account for the filter.
You’ll also need to compose and focus on the scene before the filter is fitted. Infrared light is focused differently to visible light so what may be sharp when viewed in visible light may be slightly out of focus when captured in infrared.

Final tips for getting started with infrared photography

 

1. Check your camera can capture IR
Put your camera in live view mode and point a TV remote control at the lens and press a few buttons. If you can see a flashing red tinted light, your camera is able to capture infrared light.
2. Calculate the density of your IR filter
If your visible light exposure is 1/1000th @ f/8 at ISO400 and the exposure with the filter fitted is 30 secs @ f/8 at ISO400, then the filter is equivalent to a 15-stop reduction in light. You can then use this to work out future exposures.
3. Turn off long exposure noise reduction
This means there’ll be no in-camera noise processing, so you won’t have a lengthy wait for this to be applied between shots. Instead you can adjust noise reduction during processing.
4. Black out the viewfinder
Make sure that no stray light can enter the camera, as this will ruin your infrared picture. Use the built-in shield for the viewfinder eyepiece if your camera has one or use dense tape to black it out.

 

Macro Photography Tips

Shown below is a set of ten amazing macro photographs. Each photograph includes an explanation of the camera equipment that was used and tips on how it was taken.

Many of the images below have been taken with a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens, the settings can be reproduced with any real macro lens. You’ll aslo notice they were photographed with an entry level camera, demonstrating that anyone with a DSLR can shoot awesome macro photographs.

1. Use a ring flash or twin lite flash when shooting macro

Using a flash will allow you to shoot at a reasonable speed, yet enable you to keep the aperture on a high f/11 for sufficient depth of field. I understand it isn’t always possible for beginner photographers to purchase external flash. However we recommend keeping it in mind for later on.
The photo shown below was shot in a shady part of the garden. Using a Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash allowed me to keep the aperture on a high f/11 without sacrificing shutter speed (exposure). Having the ability to keep the shutter speed at a fast 1/200th of a second allowed me to capture the moving insect sharply. It also allowed me to hand hold the camera without the use of a tripod. Like many macro photographers, I find a tripod really restrictive when photographing insects.

Photograph of a hoverfly in flight was taken with a Canon 400D SLR entry level camera, a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens and a Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

2. Learn to focus manually

Learn to use manual focus when shooting insects. As the hoverfly was constantly moving, I found turning off the lens AF (automatic focus) function made the job so much easier. If I hadn’t turned this lens setting off, it would have kept swimming or refocusing, making it near impossible to capture a sharp image of the hoverfly.

This macro was taken with a Canon 400D SLR camera, a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens and a Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

3. Learn to be patient

Learn how to be patient. Don’t run around like a mad photographer chasing an insect that won’t sit still. In my experience, that doesn’t work! You’ll be surprised how many insects are as curious of you, as you are of them.
I was lucky with this macro shot to have found a curious dragonfly. He sat really still and would allowed me to move in as close as I needed for a detailed macro photo of his whiskers. This also allowed me to keep the camera’s lens set on AF (automatic focus).

4. Crop images tight for online viewing

Crop macro images nice and tight, especially for online viewing. The original dragonfly image was cropped with Photoshop CS2 so the dragonflies face takes up the majority of the final composition.

Similar to the first two macro photographs, this one was also taken with a Canon 400D SLR camera and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.
Exposure: 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Once again, learn patience. This dragonfly come up to me as I sat under a tree, so I took the opportunity to take a few shots of it. This is one of my best tips for insect photography. I can’t repeat it enough. Personally, I’ve found it hopeless chasing them around like a mad photographer. That only seems to scare them away. Instead, it’s best to be patient and wait until you find a curious insect that is sitting still.

5. Try extension tubes

Experiment with extension tubes. They are cheaper than you might think. If you view a photographs EXIF data and notice the aperture and focal length are showing as zero (0), chances are the photographer used an extension tube or some piece of equipment that sat between the camera’s body and the lens.

Playing with water droplets, a Canon EF 100/2.8 Macro USM lens and extension tubes. For those that don’t know what extension tubes are, they are a plastic tube that sits between your camera’s body and the lens. When using extension tubes, you need to set your lens to MF (manual focus), because the automatic focus won’t work. Nowadays if you purchase extension tubes that are the same brand as your macro lens, you may be able to keep all the automatic functions (depending on the brand).
Exposure: 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/0
Focal Length: 0 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Flash: Onboard flash fired, as seen in the water drop.

6. Set shots up

All the best macro photographers set shots up. This shot of a water droplet was taken with a plastic bag (and a pin hole in it) being held over a fish tank. The camera was then focused past the glass tank and onto the droplet. There is a detailed explanation showing the setup for it at: How to photograph water drops.

7. When to use a tripod

Use a tripod if you cannot shoot faster than the length of your lens. For example, this photograph was taken with the use of a tripod and a remote release. Having a slower shutter speed of 1/30th of a second, I wouldn’t have achieved a sharp image if the camera was handheld. A general rule of thumb for hand held macro shots, is that if your lens is 100mm focal length, then the shutter speed needs to be at least 1/100th of a second or faster to achieve a sharp photograph. Therefore, if you are shooting in a shady spot of the garden, you will need a tripod to achieve great results.

Photographed with a Canon 400D and a EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens. When photographing a friendly carpet snake, it was a great opportunity for a self portrait.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.033 sec (1/30)
Aperture: f/2.8
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 100

8. Aperture Settings

Just because your macro lens can shoot with an aperture of f/2.8 doesn’t mean you should use it. For this shot, the ISO was increased to 400 speed so I could keep the aperture at a higher F number of f/11. This enabled me to get more of the Katydid in sharp focus. One of the mistakes I did when I first purchased my macro lens, was to keep the F number at a low F2.8 (just because I could). Later on I realised this wasn’t always a good idea, unless you intend on getting just the eye of an insect in focus.

Picture of a Katydid photographed with a Canon 400D SLR and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.
Exposure: 0.008 sec (1/125)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

9. Shutter Speed

When shooting macro, shutter speed is more important than ISO. Because this butterfly was moving around a lot, I increased the camera ISO speed to 400, so I could shoot with a faster shutter speed of 1/500th of a second.

This image of a butterfly was photographed with a Nikon D40 camera and a Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED lens.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.002 sec (1/500)
Aperture: f/7.1
Focal Length: 105 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

10. Learn to see

This is what I’ve always imagined fairyland to be like However, in actual fact it’s a macro shot of the tiniest moss, found at the bottom of an orchid pot. This is the beauty of macro photography, in that you get to really appreciate the smaller things in life and see them in a whole different light.

The camera was a Canon 400D SLR and the lens a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.025 sec (1/40)
Aperture: f/5.6
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

11. Never give up

If you don’t photograph the shot you initially want, that’s ok. The only reason the shutter speed is set to a fast 1/640th of a second in this case, is because I was attempting to capture the ladybird as it flies off. However, I wasn’t too successful this time around at getting one in flight. Although it’s still a personal favorite

Photograph of a ladybird taken with a Canon 400D SLR and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.002 sec (1/640)
Aperture: f/7.1
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern

12. Make good use of backlight

Make good use of morning sunlight to capture detail not seen otherwise. This particular photograph was taken at 8.30 in the morning with strong sunlight coming from behind the dragonfly. While many photographers don’t like shooting into the sun, I find when it comes to macro photography, it can often help to highlight an insects tiny hairs. You do need to be careful not to capture lens flare though. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. Trying numerous angles also helps to find the best position.

Just had to love how hairy this little fellow was
Photo of a dragonfly taken with a Canon 400D SLR and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
                                               Article found on slrphotographyguide.com / By: Tanya Puntti

Hope it was useful for you guys! try some shoots and share with us your experience and ideas! :D

Brilliant ideas!

i want to share with you guys some ideas that have been comming into my head which i really want to try, please just tell me what you think and you can try them too :D but the problem is, you need to have a professional device to change lenses which unfortunately i don't, but i'm happy sharring this with you guys :D enjooooy

Give the room a more Spacious feel

If shooting indoors and the room feels cramped around your subject, try placing them in a corner and shooting from a minimal angle. This vantage point gives a greater emphasis to the lines where the floor meets the walls, which will travel from one central point out to the lower corners of your frame, giving the exaggerated appearance of open space. Using a wide-angle lens for this type of shot will enhance the effect even further.

Make A Frame with Foliage

We’ve all used a canopy of leaves to create a frame around a subject in our compositions, but you can take this technique to the extreme by getting down low and shooting from the ground up. Try using individual blades of grass, flowers and other ground foliage to frame people. The low vantage point gives the image dramatic emphasis, and the insect’s-eye view of the grass in the foreground creates an otherworldly appearance. When shooting indoors, you’ll likely want to use flash, particularly if your shot’s posed. If you set a wide aperture, a shutter speed of about 1/60 sec and bounce off-camera flash light from the ceiling or wall at your background (direct flash light will give you harsh results), you should be able to capture well-lit portraits at ISOs of 100 or 200.

Use Bounced Flash Indoors

When shooting indoors, you’ll likely want to use flash, particularly if your shot’s posed. If you set a wide aperture, a shutter speed of about 1/60 sec and bounce off-camera flash light from the ceiling or wall at your background (direct flash light will give you nasty results), you should be able to capture well-lit portraits at ISOs of 100 or 200.

The device i'm using !!!!

Hi again,
now i want to talk to you about the device i'm using for now to take my pics, i'm using the SAMSUNG ST150F, i'm not a professional one and neither semi-professional but its good and have a really good quality, i'm saving money to get a canon but i'm still far from that price :'D

more pictures :D

here we go i have more pictures for you guys, please don't forget to support us by sharring our work on facebook :D

pictures from port-say tlemcen.

Now i'm sharing with you guys some pictures taken in port-say tlemcen (ALGERIA) its really a nice place where i had some much fun with my friends this summer! enjoooy.